- Aquarium and Aquarium Materials
Thoroughly wash the aquarium gravel, rocks, and ornaments. Do not use soap or any detergents -- they are highly toxic to fish. To wash the gravel, put it in a plastic pan or bucket and add water. The gravel should be stirred and then drained. When the water stays clear after stirring and is free of debris, the gravel is clean. - Undergravel Filter (if used)
If an undergravel filter is used, place it on the bottom of the aquarium and cover it with two to three inches of washed gravel. Be careful not to pour sand into the filter stems. If you slope the gravel down toward the front, collecting accumulating debris will be easier. - Adding Water
Fill the aquarium half to three-quarters full. Pour the water onto a plate or into the cup of your hand so it will not disturb the gravel. To instantly neutralize gases such as chlorine, chloramine and flourine and heavy metals such as copper and iron, use a neutralizer such as ContraChlorine Plus. To remove toxic ammonia, chloramine and chlorine, use a water conditioner. - Connecting Air Lines
Connect the air line tubing from the air pump to any outlets inside the aquarium, such as undergravel filters, air stones or corner filters.
- Decoration and Plants
Aquascape the aquarium with rocks, ornaments, and live or plastic plants. These should be arranged in such a way that the equipment will be concealed or at least will not detract from the appearance of the aquarium. If you are adding live plants, make sure that the water is warm enough for them. Remember to keep them moist from the time you buy them until they are planted. Plant the roots gently below the surface of the gravel, leaving the crown (if the plant has one) exposed, or they will not grow properly. - Adding the Rest of the Water
Fill the aquarium to near the top. Leave some air space between the water and the cover. Again, pour the water in such a way that you do not disturb your aquascaping and gravel. - Outside Filter, Thermostatic Heater and Thermometer
If you are using any outside filters, fill them with filter materials, locate them according to instructions and make certain their siphon is free of air. Secure the heater as directed, and place the thermometer as far away from the heater as possible. Make sure you can easily read the thermometer. - Starting Your Aquarium Equipment
Plug in your air pump, power filter and heater. Check the air outlets and adjust the settings. Make certain that water is flowing properly through your power filter. Adjust the thermostatic heater to the proper temperature, checking periodically. It will take some time for the temperature to stabilize, and you may have to adjust your setting.Important: Do not switch on the heater-thermostat when it is not immersed in water in the tank. The heating element can malfunction and overheat, and the glass tube can shatter if placed in water while hot.
- Checking the Conditions and Temperature After a Few Hours
Water in new aquariums will often turn milky for a day or two. This is caused by a harmless bacterial growth and should disappear naturally. Check the pH and hardness of your water.
- Adding Fish to the Aquarium
After your aquarium is operating, check the functioning of your equipment and the water conditions again, adding a water conditioner to provide an "aged" water effect and to give the fish a protective coating. The temperature of the water should be 75 degrees F (24 degrees C). If everything is fine, buy your first few fish.There are two common methods used to introduce fish into the aquarium. One way is to transfer the fish into glass jars, then float the jars in the aquarium for 15 to 20 minutes. Make certain the jars do not have too much water in them. Add small amounts of aquarium water to each jar every few minutes. After the water temperature in the jar is the same as in the aquarium, pour the fish into a net and release into the aquarium. Do not pour water from other tanks into your aquarium, as it may introduce unwanted organisms.
The second method uses the plastic bags in which the fish are usually transported from the store. Use the same floating techniques as above, making sure there is plenty of air in the bag so the fish do not suffocate. Do not allow the bags to collapse.
Although they appear tedious, these methods will reduce the chances of initial shock to your fish in their new environment. The reason for introducing only a few fish at first is to initiate the nitrogen cycle. This cycle takes 20 to 25 days to stabilize, and more fish should not be added until the nitrite level has dropped to a safe level. Use a nitrite testing kit to determine the proper time.
- Covering the Aquarium
Place the cover plates securely on top of the aquarium to protect the fish and prevent them from jumping out. Turn on the aquarium light. - First Feeding and Control
It is advisable not to feed your fish until they have adapted themselves to their new environment (one to two days). Watch your fish closely. If they are hiding in corners, "standing around" or showing pale colors, it is possible that something is out of order. Recheck the following:- Is the temperature correct?
- Was the water too fresh? (Was a water conditioner added?)
- Are the lights and color of the gravel too light?
- Do the plants offer enough hiding places for the fish?
- Are the fish healthy?
© 2000 Warner-Lambert Company. All rights reserved.
Want to know more? Visit the Aquarium message board and meet some fellow fish hobbyists.
