"To pick a fresh bird, try to buy it at the meat counter unwrapped. Look for an unbruised, bright skin and pink interior, and avoid birds with brown or dry patches. Ask to take a whiff: it should have little or no smell. If you have to buy prewrapped, check the appearance and the use-by date, and try to find the most recently packed bird. Don't buy the bird longer than a day or two before you'll cook it, and keep it in the coldest part of your refrigerator. If you buy a frozen bird, thaw it quickly and safely by immersing it in cold water."