A Girl's Guide to WHERE IN THE WORLD IS MATT LAUER:
What, Where, How, When & What to Wear
Wednesday, May 2, 2007
THE KINGDOM OF BHUTAN
Where:
It's Day Three and Matt has arrived at arguably his most exceptional destination yet - the Kingdom of Bhutan.
Hidden in the eastern Himalayas between India and Tibet, Bhutan is a country dedicated to preserving its rich heritage and strong Buddhist beliefs. The government has been reluctant to allow outside influences into the country, but there's been a recent technological revolution that's provided a glimpse into the outside world.
My advice: Visit this untouched utopia before it's forever changed. You still won't see a McDonald's anytime soon (thank goodness), but there are signs of modernization creeping into this amazing destination.
Admittedly, it's hard to be as cheeky about this location because you cannot feel anything other than reverence for a place so spiritual and genuinely happy. From the majestic Himalayas to the lush valleys, you can't help but wonder over the natural marvels of this country. However, it's the warm, placid nature of the people, and the love of their religion and way of life that seems to attract visitors from all over the world.
What:
As my friend, Ellison, says, "All roads lead to Paro." Paro, located in the western part of the country, is the central hub, mainly because it holds the only airport. Did I mention, there's only one way in, one way out - Paro - via airplane on Druk Air? There's no rail system, so once you're in the country, all transportation is by car on tight, winding, mountainside roads. Despite the precarious appearance of the roads, they're very safe with surprisingly few accidents. If you're caught behind an accident, though, there's nothing you can do except relax and embrace the situation. They will wait until the proper authorities arrive, and since you can't pass the accident, consider it part of the overall experience.
OK, back to the regions within Bhutan. You will want to allow time to explore Paro, the town and surrounding valley. It is home to the national museum, housed in the old watchtower, and one of the oldest dzongs in the country, dating back to the 15th century. (Dzongs are fortress-like buildings that dot the hilltops throughout Bhutan. Typically they're built at a vantage point that allows them to see the entire valley below ... and anyone approaching. The architecture is unique to Bhutan.)
The famed Taktshang Lhakhang monastery, or Tiger's Nest, is located outside Paro. It requires a three-hour hike to reach the building, but it's worth it to catch a glimpse of Mt. Jhomolhari, which rises to nearly 24,000 feet. You can also access it via a pony ride. (If you've ever ridden a pony up a mountain, you may opt to walk it.)
Southeast of Paro, situated in the midst of the Himalayas, lies the capital city of Thimphu. As a smaller city, it will give you a good idea of daily life in the Bhutan kingdom. Just outside the city sits the Simtokha Dzong, the oldest in the country and now used as the language school, and the Trashi Cchoe Dzong, home of the National Assembly and summer residence of the monastic community. This is also the venue for the famous Thimphu Festival which takes place every year in September, the only time they allow foreign visitors inside.
Most tours will take you throughout the remaining regions in the country - central and eastern. You have to cross the Black Mountains to reach the central area of the country. Until the 1970's, you had to really want to make this trek--mule and your own two feet were the only options. Fortunately, you now have the precarious, yet drivable, mountain roads.
Continuing to the east is a fascinating experience, for the geography as well as the distinct cultural difference from the west. After crossing Bhutan's second highest mountain pass, which is often closed in winter due to heavy snowfall, you steadily descend from an alpine climate to a subtropical one. The weaving villages in the east are renowned for their skills, including those who have served as weavers for the Royal Family for generations.
Exploring Your Spiritual Side:
The Buddhist religion permeates the culture; in fact, the two are synonymous. Bhutan holds more than 20 religious and cultural festivals throughout the year, each village celebrating in its own way. Regardless of when you visit Bhutan, you will likely arrive during "Festival Season."
The Himalayas possess a mystical quality, and the Gods are thought to live there. Whether there to observe or practice the ancient Buddhist religion, or commune with the Gods themselves, Bhutan attracts those on a spiritual journey.
Reaching the Top of the World:
Trekkers looking for an alternative to Nepal come to Bhutan. But they do so that their own peril. The mountains of Bhutan are phenomenal, and there are still villages and monasteries that you can only reach by foot, so naturally it attracts those brave enough to climb them. However, the country still lacks the infrastructure that Nepal and other countries have in place. There are no warming huts, campsites, etc., so you're really going it alone. Make sure you have a good guide!
Finding Your Happy Place
Bhutan is the only kingdom in the world to measure its citizen's happiness. The former king, His Majesty Jigme Singye Wangchu, who abdicated the throne to his son just this past December, was famously quoted as saying, "Gross National Happiness is more important than Gross National Product." Fairly progressive considering that was over 35 years ago. Then again, it was the '70s.
Their strong religious convictions drive every aspect of their lives, even their economy. Clearly, it is working for them. The University of Leicester in the U.K. recently released survey findings on the "happiest" countries in the world. Bhutan ranked #8, the U.S. #23; both better than the U.K., where the study originated. (For the record, Denmark ranked #1.)
Getting There:
Bhutan notoriously limits the number of tourists entering the kingdom, not by restricting the number of visas it doles out (as other countries do), but by limiting the ways you can enter the country. Although tourism is a key part of their economy, they're determined to avoid any of the potential negative impacts. To enter the country, you must be a tourist or a guest of the government. To give you an idea of the tight restrictions, fewer than 20,000 visited Bhutan in all of 2006.
As mentioned, Druk Air is the only way in, and they have very limited flights. Before you can even buy a ticket on Druk Air, you have to have already reserved--and paid in full--for your trip to Bhutan. You really have two options for traveling within Bhutan: An organized tour through a recognized tour provider; or, a customized trip with a private guide and driver. You'll have the greatest flexibility with a customized trip, and the cost is not significantly more since the government sets the pricing. They strongly discourage individual travel by making it very expensive and nearly impossible to get the required paperwork.
During the busy season, spring and fall, you should plan your trip about six months in advance. In the low season, you can plan about 90 days out. Given the complexity of the travel to and within Bhutan, and the necessary paperwork, I highly advise using a travel agent. You can certainly research and organize it on your own, but there are agents who specialize in the area. (Given my background and affiliations, you can take or leave the advice; however, this is what I would tell my friends and family!)
Once There:
No Need to Rough It
The folks at Aman Resorts have found a way to offer a luxe environment, complete with spa treatments, yoga and mediation, while allowing guests to experience various regions within the country.
Amankora is a series of guest lodges set in Bhutan's historically isolated western and central valleys. You can stay in all or combine them to customize your stay. Amankora Paro, Amankora Punakha, Amankora Gangtey and Amankora Thimphu offer a unique experience of Bhutan's impressive dzongs, historic temples and pristine Himalayan landscapes. Consistent with Bhutanese architecture, suites have rammed-earth walls and gently sloping roofs; wood paneled interiors with local timbers and feature a twin or king-size bed, bukhari wood-burning stove and large baths.
International Expeditions offers a 14-day journey throughout Bhutan, giving you plenty of time to explore the various regions. It's a thorough exploration of the country, available June 19 - July 2 this year.
What to Wear:
My friend Tim and his childhood best friend visited Bhutan in 2001 and he provided some of the best advice I've found: While there, wear the local dress. He said it opened doors for them and provided access to hidden spots because they respected the local custom.
The government mandates attire for the residents as a way of preserving their culture. It certainly takes the stress out of packing and your boyfriend (husband, significant other, whatever) will never hear you utter, "Does this make me look fat," because it has little shape beyond the waist.
The traditional dress for men is the gho, a knee-length robe tied at the waist by a cloth belt. Women wear a kira, an ankle-length dress that clips at one shoulder and ties at the waist. To keep warm, wear a long-sleeved blouse, known as a toego, underneath the outer layer. The fabric's texture, colors, and embellishments, as well as scarves and shawls, signify social status.
Bhutan weavers create gorgeous fabrics and silks. Even if you don't opt for the traditional wardrobe, you'll likely come home with the materials. Bhutan jewelry is also a must, especially the Tibetan turquoise (look for the robin's-egg blue variety with no veins or flaws; anything approaching green or vein-y is considered commonplace).
Shopping Secrets:
Buyer beware on purchasing antiquities. Anything considered a relic cannot be taken out of the country. The item needs to have a government stamp or seal to designate it a non-antique if you want to get it through Customs.
For the stamp collector in your family, Bhutan is a goldmine. The designs are works of art.
It's Good to Be the Girl (Most of the Time):
Inheritance in Bhutan generally goes to the female, not the male line. (No Sense and Sensibility issue here!) Daughters inherit their parents' house, while men are expected to fend for themselves. (Typically, they move into their wife's home.) Arranged marriages are not the case here, so everyone is responsible for their own lot in life. The population is 46.5% female, which means you have better odds of finding a husband.
The downside for girls? The literacy rate is only 34% among women.
In the Know
Matt arrived on today, May 2, a national holiday commemorating the birth of Bhutan's Third King, His Majesty Jigme Dorji Wangchuk, known as the "Father of Modern Bhutan."
You will find internet, cell service and television now - the King lifted the ban in 1999.
The national language is Dzongkha, one of 53 dialects found within the country. Fortunately, English is taught in school and widely spoken.
No Smoking, Please: Bhutan is the only country in the world to ban smoking as well as the sale of tobacco. If you can't live without your fix, prepare to pay a hefty fine...worse. (Bloomberg would love this place!)
Archery is the national sport, and it's perfectly acceptable to stand around the target and mock the shooter's ability. (A "Hey! Batta, batta," if you will.) Now, if he misses, and hits you, who gets the last laugh?
Quick Guide:
Where - Bhutan
What - A spiritual haven in the Himalayas, and the single best reason to take up mountain climbing
How - Fly into Paro via Druk Air from India, Nepal or Thailand
When - September and October is the best time to visit. The skies are clear, so you have better views, and the festivals are in full swing. Also consider April and May, when the Rhododendrons are in full bloom. But go soon!
What to Wear - Take your walking shoes, I mean your real walking shoes. If trekking, go with legitimate gear. If touring, play dress-up by wearing the national garb.
Ready to catch your breath and take a step back in time? Consider Bhutan. Contact Virtuoso to speak with a Bhutan specialist.
WANDER WOMAN's journey continues, thanks to the intrepid Mr Lauer. Don't miss tomorrow's top secret spot!
About MISTY EWING, AKA Wander Woman:
Her jet may not be invisible, but Misty Ewing is the WANDER WOMAN of travel. By day, Misty is the Director of Public Relations for Virtuoso, where she's spent the past eight years doing what she loves most - inspiring people to see the world while wandering about it, herself. With Prada and Blahniks in tow, she bucks baggage restrictions and single-handedly endeavors to bring back the steamer trunk.
Talking up the world's best luxury travel company is not exactly the toughest job, especially when you consider the perks. She's sipped champagne in Champagne, private reserve vodka in St. Petersburg, ouzo in Greece and sake in Shanghai. She's strode the banks of the Seine and the beaches of the Bahamas, always in fabulous footwear.
Never one to forget her small-town Texas roots, Misty prides herself on knowing how to travel well on any budget. She defines luxury as having an authentic experience wherever she goes. If it includes scuba diving, her truest travel passion, and no Blackberry service, even better. Misty, along with her shoes, fins and steamer trunks, currently resides in New York City. And yes, Misty is her real name.
